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Batteries 101: Everything you wanted to know |
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Featured in the February issue of Camping Life Magazine Perfectly Covered Find the right insurance for your RV By Larry Walton Providing RVers with practical information on the different types of RV insurance policies available, this helpful article answers the questions:"What type of insurance do I need? And how much insurance coverageis enough?" By detailing an RV insurance shopping list as well as a helpful glossary of insurance terms, writer Larry Walton guides readers through the insurance buying process. Also included is advice on insurancecoverage when traveling out of the country. And a resource list of RV insurance companies and contact info is provided. To learn more or to start your free trial subscription to Camping Life magazine, click here. |
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Basic Know–How for Vehicle Towing Do the convenience, safety and security of having a compact car, SUV or truck available for sightseeing or running errands appeal to you? Many motorhome owners enjoy the freedom of jumping into a car without the hassles of breaking down camp and packing up the RV for daily outings. Depending on how often and how long you travel, renting a car at the final destination may be impractical. Instead, many motorhome owners opt to tow a small vehicle behind their RV. Full Article |
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Batteries continued from above… Plates in deep–cycle batteries are constructed of higher–density lead, which allows frequent deep discharges without the accelerated shedding of the material from the plates that occurs when starting batteries are subject to this type of use. Starting batteries will fail rapidly if repeatedly discharged heavily. Engine–starting batteries have thin plates suspensed in electrolyte, sulfuric acid combined with water, gel, or glass mat, depending on the design. These batteries are rated in cold–cranking amps (CCA), which is the maximum load a fully charged battery can deliver for thirty seconds at °F while maintaining at least 7.2 volts. Some starting batteries can be maintenance–free. Deep–cycle batteries have fewer plates, but they are thicker and coated with antimony or calcium, which increases hardness. This design limits the amount of lead that is sloughed off into the bottom of the case due to repeated charging and discharging cycles. Deep–cycle batteries are available in three styles: conventional flooded–electrolyte, gelled electrolyte, and absorbed glass mat (AGM). Flooded–cell batteries have been around for decades and use acid and water electrolyte around for the positive and negative lead plates. Gel–type batteries utilize a gel to immobilize the electrolyte and calcium on the plates, which reduces the gassing. AGM batteries are similar to gel cells, but the electrolyte is absorbed by a fine glass mat. Like the gel cell, AGM batteries recombine the gases during charging, limiting gassing. Gel and AMG batteries are sealed, virtually eliminating corrosion problems associated with flooded–electrolyte batteries. One plate is positive and the other is negative. As the battery delivers power (discharging), the acid in the electrolyte enters the positive and negative plates. The electrolyte becomes weaker as the acid is depleted until the battery cannot deliver power at a useful voltage. By reversing the current flow (charging), sulfuric acid is returned to the electrolyte from the plates. Electrolyte management (maintaining proper water levels, combined with proper charging techniques and intervals, can make the difference in performance and battery longevity. Maintenance–free and sealed batteries do not require water replenishment. To learn more technical and RVing tips such as the one you just read, please click here. |
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Basic Know–How for Vehicle Towing continued from above… Yet the thought of adding more weight, additional cost and reduction in maneuverability give some RVers pause about towing a second vehicle (also called a dinghy or toad). Here are 3 basic – but important – questions to address if you're considering purchasing a tow vehicle: What’s the Right Tow Vehicle for Me? You may already own a vehicle suitable for towing. Check the Dinghy Towing Guide from Motorhome magazine for the most complete listing of towing ratings. The most reliable resource for the suitability of a new or used tow vehicle is the specific owner’s manual. Some considerations:
There are two key numbers every motorhome owner must know: the RV’s curb weight and the GCWR (gross combined weight rating). Both can be found in the owner’s manual. Generally speaking, a weight of 3,500 to 5,000 pounds is allowed for a dinghy vehicle. Check your owner’s manual for the chassis recommendations. Choose the lightest tow vehicle that will suit your needs. The lighter the load, the better performance and fuel economy. What’s the Best Towing Method? There are 3 ways you can tow a car behind a motorhome. Check the owner’s manual of the towed vehicle for towing recommendations and warnings. Towing Method Advantages/Drawbacks:
http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/dinghytowingguide/index.cfm http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com |
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